Herbaceous perennial plant cyanotis (Cyanotis) is directly related to the Commelinaceae family. It comes from the tropical regions of Africa and Asia. The name of the plant is formed by such Greek words as Kyaneos - "blue" and ous, obis - "ear". And this name is associated with the appearance of flowers. Such perennials (less often annuals) have creeping shoots. Alternate leaflets have tubular sheaths. Small flowers are placed in axillary or apical curls. The fruit is presented in the form of a box.

Home care for cyanotis


Lighting must be necessarily bright, but diffused. In winter, good lighting is also needed, so experts advise providing the plant with additional lighting.

Temperature regime

In the warm season, a temperature of about 20 degrees is most suitable for such a flower. In winter, you can lower the temperature, but so that it is not less than 12 degrees. Cyanotis can overwinter quite calmly at normal room temperature.


Does not need high humidity and spraying.

How to water

In spring and summer, watering should be moderate, while the soil should always be slightly damp. In winter, it is necessary to water sparingly and rarely, while the substrate should be almost completely dry.

Top dressing

Top dressing is carried out from March to August 1 time in 2 weeks. For this, fertilizer is used for decorative deciduous plants.

Transplant features

The transplant is carried out approximately once every 2 years. The soil should be loose and light. To prepare the soil mixture, combine leaf, humus, peat and turf soil, as well as sand. Do not forget to make a good drainage layer at the bottom of the container.

Reproduction methods

It can be propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Sowing seeds is carried out in slightly moistened soil, the container must be covered with glass and placed in a warm, shaded place. After the appearance of the seedlings, the bowl is transferred to the light.

Cuttings are carried out in the spring. The cuttings should be planted in sand mixed with peat. It must be covered with a transparent cellophane bag or a glass jar, and transferred to a warm and shaded place.

Pests and diseases

Aphids, scale insects, as well as spider mites can settle on the plant.

Main types

Cyanotis kewensis (Cyanotis kewensis)

This herb is a perennial. It has uplifting, creeping shoots with dense foliage, which together create a dense curtain. The leaves have a tubular sheath, which completely hides the shoot, their shape is heart-lanceolate or heart-ovate, and they are located like a tile. The leaves are also quite fleshy, reaching 3-4 centimeters long and 1.5–2 centimeters wide, the top is bent downward, and the lower part is colored violet-red. The color of the flowers varies from light red to blue, while they are clustered in short apical curls. On the surface of all parts of the plant there are soft short brownish-red hairs.

Cyanotis nodiflora

This herbaceous plant is a perennial and has a slightly branched, erect stem. The leaves are linear in shape at the tips, as a rule, the color is green, but sometimes the seamy side casts purple. Leaflets are glabrous or their lower surface along the tubular sheath is covered with pubescence, consisting of appressed long hairs. In the upper leaf axils there are sessile dense inflorescences consisting of small flowers. Their petals have grown together by 1/3 part and can be painted in lavender, pink or blue.

Cyanotis somali (Cyanotis somaliensis)

This herb is also a perennial. There is pubescence on the surface of the shoots. Green lanceolate leaves have a shiny upper surface, and the edge, lower surface and sheath are heavily pubescent with whitish, rather long, spaced hairs. The flowers are small. Petals ½ of their length have grown together and can be colored purple or deep blue. Flowers can be solitary, but as a rule, they are collected on dense, short curls located in the upper leaf axils or on the tops of the stems.


Chrysalidocarpus (Chrysalidocarpus) is an ornamental palm tree, very popular among flower growers due to the exotic beauty of the leaves and undemanding care. This is a tropical heliophyte, that is, a light-loving plant, native to the Comoros and Madagascar. The name translates as "golden fruit", in Greek "chryseus" and karpos ". Belongs to the palm family and the type genus Arekovs.

Chrysalidocarpus in nature has about 20 species, for breeding in indoor conditions only one of them is cultivated - Chrysalidocarpus yellowish. Palm trees from the genus arec are both single-stemmed and multi-stemmed bushy plants with straight, unbranched, smooth shoots, growing more than 10 m in height. It has carved feathery leaves, long and wide, paired, 40-60 pieces per stem. Numerous stems of chrysalidocarpus form a lush crown, the beauty of which will add charm to any interior.

Home care

When caring for a fern houseplant, you do not need to select a special type of soil or special fertilizer. Enough periodic watering in accordance with the norms, adding a small amount of fertilizer and choosing the right place to place the pot. But, be sure to provide conditions that will help maintain the plant in its normal form:

Under natural conditions, these relics are unpretentious and can do without water for long periods. This feature is often retained in domestic species. Plants are very sensitive to air pollution, which is why many put a fern pot in the kitchen as an indicator. Even a slight gas leak will affect the condition of leaves and fringes. But, with such an arrangement, forced ventilation is required - an exhaust hood.

Lighting requirements

When choosing a place to place a fern in an apartment, you need to take into account that these plants do not tolerate exposure to direct sunlight or excessive shade. The light falling on the leaves should be diffused, for which the relic can be covered with a light curtain or curtain. Therefore, the best place in the room is the corner opposite the window. The room in which such decorative vegetation is placed must be well ventilated. But, the greenery on the plant must be sprayed or a stationary air humidifier must be installed.

When choosing a place for a plant, they take into account the peculiarities of the development of a particular variety. Some species are able to reach large sizes, releasing large fronds, they will be cramped on the windowsill. Moreover, the windows where plants of this type are placed must be matte or covered with fabric. If there is not enough space, the leaf plates of the fern are deformed and its decorative effect decreases.


Temperature conditions are important for ferns. An ornamental-deciduous plant develops well at temperatures within + 15 ... + 22˚ C. But, for some varieties, a different temperature regime is needed. In the case of thermophilic varieties - asplenium, nephrolepis, platycerium, maidenhair - the temperature in the room should not fall below + 18˚ C in winter. And the more winter-hardy varieties of the relict plant - Pilea, polypodium - in winter can survive a decrease in indicators to + 12˚ C.

Compact varieties of decorative ferns do not tolerate drafts and cold air. Therefore, such plants cannot be placed on the windowsills of windows from which they blow or under an open window. Cold air can cause the plant to wilt. But, at the same time, ferns cannot grow normally in rooms with poor ventilation, so the room must be periodically ventilated, but not overcooled the plant.


Ornamental ferns are not particularly whimsical in terms of soil mix, but they develop better in the soil that suits them. If you do not provide the correct soil for the home flower, then the relic from the picture will not be able to grow, regardless of the correctness of the rest of the care. For these indoor plants, soil is a good option, the composition of which is as follows:

  • with a high content of rotted foliage
  • low peat content
  • a little pine needles and sand are added to the soil.

The earth must be slightly acidic (pH slightly less than 7.0), light, loose, it is good to let liquid and air pass through. Domesticated species of relics grow in approximately such soil in their natural environment. It's easy to make the right mix yourself, or you can buy it at a flower shop. They sell ready-made soil compositions for ferns, which contain all the required substances for the full development of this plant.


For humidification of indoor fern, settled tap water, collected rain or melt water is suitable. Overflows are also harmful to ferns. When the liquid begins to stagnate in the soil, the root system of the indoor relic can rot. It is necessary to water a home relic in winter approximately 1 time in 5-7 days, and in summer - as the soil mixture dries out, but not to allow significant waterlogging of the soil.

Watering mode is one of the main parameters when caring for a fern at home. Such indoor flowers are able to tolerate insufficient moisture in the soil in the flower container for some time, but the complete drying out of the soil in the pot is the reason for their death. Moisten the soil mixture in the pot as its surface dries. If the flower begins to dry due to insufficient watering, then it is virtually impossible to restore it.

Planting and transplanting a flower

Annual transplantation is needed only for young plants under the age of 5–6 years. An adult areca needs one procedure every 3-4 years. The best time for her is mid-spring. When a palm tree reaches such a size that it is physically impossible to transplant it, limit yourself to replacing the top 5-7 cm of soil in the tub with a freshly prepared substrate.

A pot for Areca is chosen high and stable, resembling a bucket in shape. The preferred materials are wood or ceramic. Such containers are heavier, there is less chance of a palm tree accidentally toppling over. The diameter of the pot is increased by 8-10 cm each time. A wide drainage hole is required.

Areca has a developed root system, so the pot needs a deep and voluminous

For areca, a special soil for palms or citrus fruits is quite suitable, but you can prepare the substrate yourself. It should be neutral or acidic (pH 6.0-7.8) and sufficiently nutritious while providing good aeration.

  • Leafy land, fertile sod, humus, coarse river sand (4: 2: 1: 1). For adult palms, the volume of humus is doubled.
  • Peat chips, sand, sod land, pieces of pine bark (2: 2: 1: 1). One third of the volume of sand can be replaced with perlite or vermiculite.
  • Bone meal, pieces of charcoal, pebbles or small expanded clay (about 0.3 cm in diameter), perlite or vermiculite, peat chips (approximately equal in total, twice as much peat). The mixture is more suitable for young plants.

A useful additive is crushed pumice or crushed chalk (approximately 1/10 of the total volume of the finished soil mixture). It is good for preventing root rot.

Areca can be grown in a special substrate for palm trees.

The transplant itself looks like this:

  • Remove the plant from the pot, keeping the earthy ball intact if possible. It is easier to do this if you water the palm tree abundantly 1–1.5 hours before the procedure.
  • Using a sharpened, sanitized knife, cut off 1.5–2 cm of the "fringe" at the bottom of the earthen coma.
  • At the bottom of the new container, pour a layer of expanded clay or other drainage material at least 5 cm thick. On top - about the same amount of freshly prepared substrate.
  • Place the earthy ball in a new pot. Add soil around the edges. Make sure that the palm is not buried deeper than it was before. Try to keep the soil level approximately the same.
  • Shake the pot gently several times to distribute the soil evenly.
  • Water the palm in moderation, place the tub in light partial shade for 2-3 days.

    When replanting areca, try to damage the earthen lump as little as possible.

    Video: how to transplant Areca correctly

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